Magical Milford

The weather down here has been so unpredictable; we've stopped looking at the weather forecast.  The day that we decided not to ride because of 'possible thunderstorms' ended up being hot and sunny by 11am and staying that way!  I did get to enjoy some Deep South icecream though, so that made up for it.  After Dinner Mint is my favourite flavour - tastes just like after-dinner mint!   

Yesterday we avoided checking a weather forecast and just headed off up the Milford Road.  It was a surprisingly easy ride up the valley; and the weather stayed clear.  We got a neat self-timer jump shot at one of the lookout points - first attempt, too!   The purple and pink lupins are all out; a DOC officer said "they are weeds, but they're pretty".   We arrived at Lake Gunn DOC campsite - no facilities except a long-drop toilet.  It was a lovely spot by the lake and there were quite a few other people there.  We sat on the warm rocks by the lake and enjoyed the sound of the birds and the sight of the green beech trees with the snow on the peaks peeking between the trees.  We were camped next to Hannes, a german cyclist on a recumbent bike.  He is vegetarian and is pretty much living on tomato sauce and rice!  We invited him to share our dinner (decadence in comparison - fresh broccoli, carrot, onion with green tomato relish, rice - and salami for us).

Now that we are talking about food, let me tell you about our breakfast porridge - this morning Erin made the porridge, with added goji berries and cranberries.  Luxurious and so good!

We made an early start to hit the Milford road before the tour buses arrived.  It was a nice ride to the top of the pass, with a surprising number of nice downhills to keep us distracted from the uphills.  We went through the Homer Tunnel at the front of the queue; Erin requested the first car sit behind us to prevent people overtaking us on the way down.  I don't know how fast we went down but it was pretty scary!  There was minimal light and our bike lights were useless.  Erin and Julie shot ahead of me but I didn't dare go any faster.  When we arrived blinking out in the sunlight on the other side a campervan driver said "You three are certifiable". He actually looked a bit annoyed that we'd done it.   The 900m vertical descent to Milford Sound was magic.  Erin's toes got so cold she couldn't feel them and it took a long time in the Blue Duck cafe to warm up again.

In Milford Sound itself it was raining, so there was no view of the sound or Mitre Peak.  We didn't mind; we'd had our adventures already with the scenery of the Milford road; the adrenaline of Homer Tunnel and the thrill of the fast descent.  So we sat in the cafe and ate food and waited for our bus back to Te Anau.  The bus ride back was stunning; almost better perspective than the bike ride in!   Funny though that we were almost the only ones on the bus awake and appreciating the view - the other tourists were heading all the way back to Queenstown and must've been viewed out.

Tomorrow we bike to Mavora Lakes, and the next day will take the backroad to Walter Peak Station; then the Earnslaw paddle steamer to Queenstown.